Thursday, August 18, 2011

Vogue 1004

Alternate title: Moulage fail.

I've been working on my moulage using Kenneth King's CD book on and off for over a year.  In the last two weeks, I've made 3-4 versions and taken my measurements over and over again.  I lost faith in one or more of the following: my ability to measure, the method of drafting the moulage, or the moulage-ability of my body.  Before the moulage, I thought my bod was pretty simple to understand.  By the time I gave up, I began to wonder how I managed to get anything to fit, ever. That said, the moulage worked pretty well for my husband.  Here's a few photos of him...note that he and I might have both been eating too many sandwiches the past few weeks...

So, since I have actually gotten clothes to fit before, I decided not to reinvent the wheel and to try using a big 4 fitting shell.  Wow, what a relief!  I've learned a lot of interesting stuff about how I relate to the Vogue fit model.  Lesson #1:  I took a risk and bought the pattern size that most closely corresponded to my measurements.  I thought to myself, "Surely, Vogue doesn't add mystery ease to a pattern that is supposed to have no ease, right?!?"  This paid off, buy the size that most closely corresponds to your measurements.  Then, making the alterations is much much easier.

Here are the differences:
I used the d-cup bodice (it comes with 3!)
I increased the waist 1 inch (too many sandwiches!)
I increased the bicep 3/4 inch (strong? :-)
I increased the waist to full hip 1.5 inches
I increased the elbow to wrist length 7/8 inches
I decreased the bust point to waistline 1 5/8 inches
I decreased back neck to bustline 5/8 inches
I decreased back bustline to waistline 7/8 inches.

Interesting!!  It looks like I need to do FBAs and petite adjustments on my bodices.  Overall, though, I'm 5'8.  Taller than average.  So much for swayback.

You don't get to see the skirt b/c you can see my undies through the muslin.  So you get to see the bodice.  I love it!!  I did not have to do a sway back adjustment.  Having correct back waist length and cup size makes a world of difference!  The only thing I'm not sure about is the skirt dart depth.  Are they long enough?  Well, you could answer if I'd shown you my hips, but we will all have to wonder instead.

The instructions for this pattern are pretty great.  They are 12 pages long!  Lesson #2, I'd trace it off before starting to make adjustments.  I've just discovered rolls of tracing ("sketch" paper at the local Michael's) paper at the art store.  Handy.

I also got a copy of Make Your Own Dress Patterns by Adele P. Margolis.  I love it!  It's about a million hours of fun, rotating darts around, experimenting with necklines and everything else under the sun.  I can't wait to start using my V1004 to create personalized patterns.

I've been stewing over that FBA in V1239.  I think I'm going to add that dart.  I just don't know where yet.

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