Sunday, August 8, 2010

Moulage - First "Draft"

All right, so I am beginning to be rather tempted to scrap my commercial pattern from the hips up and draft my own instead.  This was my first attempt at drafting and sewing a moulage, and while it is far from perfect, there are several advantages which I am feeling may be easier to attain by drafting my own than by trying to alter the commercial pattern:

1) the grainlines in the side bust area remain vertical even after adjustments to accommodate for the >B-cup size.
2) the lengths (i.e., hip to waist, waist to shoulder, bust to shoulder, armpit to waist) are all correct.
3) the shape at the bust is much more flattering than what I have achieved so far on my own.

You can see that I measured something wrong above the bust, as there is extra fabric in a few places, and the shoulder seams seem too short (I don't think this is true, though, as the neckline is not in the right place).  Feeling like it didn't matter--because I'm making a strapless dress, after all--I tried to do a swayback adjustment on this to deal with the wrinkles on the back.  BUT, I think the wrinkles were also partly caused by all the extra fabric up top, so when I made a bustier draft using this moulage, incorporating the swayback adjustment, there were still wrinkles in the back (I removed 1 1/2 inches--at that much, my back should be WAY SWAYED :-P ).  So I will start over as soon as I decide whether it would be worth it to try and do this for my dress.  I need help deciding, I think I will ask at my Wedding Gowns 101 class.

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