Saturday, July 10, 2010

Post-fitting adjustments to foundation Part I - 7/10/2010

All right, by some miracle, I think these photos are lining up.  Anyhow, this afternoon and evening I worked on fitting the foundation for my dress.  You can see that it's fitting pretty well, though I still have a few problems to solve.  First, I had to shape the bottom of the garment, you can see the outline for the future fold/hem line at the bottom in brown thread.  Then, I had to remove about 1.5 extra inches in circumference, and even more from the hip area.  I remove most of that from the seams between the back pieces and the side back pieces.  I measured the marks from the fitting I did with Temi, and then decided where to distribute them in the garment, then I marked, dismantled the pieces, pressed, then drew in new sew lines with the help of my rulers and French curves.  After that, I resewed the pieces.

When I tried on the resulting foundation, I discovered it was smashing me in the bust area and there was bunching in the back.  So, I ripped the seams in the bust area between the front piece and the side front pieces. After I measured how much more fabric I needed, ripped the whole seam, used my French curves to draw the needed curves on the side front pieces and resewed.  I was worried when my top seam lines didn't match, but then I realized that I needed to lengthen the front piece at the top to accommodate the extra curviness on the side front pieces.  So you can see the old seam line and the new one in the front-facing photos above.  The new one still has a little bunching in the back, so I will need to figure out what's causing that. 

Also, this already supports me pretty well, so I'm not going to need another foundation under this. But I need to figure out how I want the shaping and boning to go.  I need to add more, so I will update you on progress in the next week or so.

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